Fashion, together with art, is one of the creative sectors in which research on materials is always taken to extremes.The constant push to overcome the limits and to identify new textile structures has led designers to the experimentation and use of unusual materials such as paper!
This is why Lucca Biennale decided to include, within its sections, a special stage for Fashion, for all creative people who work on clothing and accessories made with the poor materials par excellence: paper and cardboard.Lot of people are able to achieve very surprising results, managing to create shapes, designs and fabrics that do not seem possible. In other cases these materials are so malleable and ductile that they no longer look like paper, turning into real pieces of haute couture!
From August 1st to September 26
Ex Museo del Fumetto, Lucca.
Who? What? How?
Red tapestry, autumn. Brown tapestry, autumn. Blue tapestry, winter. Purple tapestry, winter.
Anna Onesti trained between Rome and Turin. You then undertook an articulated program of studies in Japan, India and Indonesia to learn the ancient methods of dyeing and restoring paper and acquire the knowledge of the symbolic meaning that accompanies the flight of kites in oriental cultures. Some of her works are exhibited in major exhibitions in Italy and abroad and she is also constantly active in the field of Cultural Heritage with International Institutions dedicated to safeguarding cultural heritage
Technique: Washi paper and handmade Japanese paper combined with traditional Japanese fabric colouring techniques with the use of natural colours (the itjimezome, the shiborizome and the katazome).
4 Tapestries, itajimezome dye, gouache, sumi ink on washi paper mounted on linen. The works are made on paper (then mounted on linen) using decorative techniques inspired by the traditional dyeing of fabrics, such as itajimezome, shiborizome and katazome. These techniques, created for dyeing fabrics, are also used to dye paper. The history of paper in Japan has its roots in distant times thanks to contacts with China through Korea and thanks to the advent of Buddhism, officially introduced in 552. The tapestries are made using washi paper obtained from the processing of Kozo fibers and colors of plant origin such as the blue of the indigofera tinctoria (ai), the purple of the wood of Brazil (suwo), the red of the roots of robbia (Akane), the yellow of the tree of Amur (kihada), the brown of the alder fruits (yashiya), the green of the gall nuts (fushi), the black of the carbon ink (sumi). The long and soft fibres of washi paper have the ability to transmit depth to the materials used and to give the stains of color and traces of signs a light haze that softens the contours and smoothes the strokes transforming the color into a pulsating material. The colors have been exemplified in the works proposed, so here in the most subtle shades, the blue, red, purple and brown, each pair of Tapestries is associated with a season, in this I was inspired, the Japanese novel of the eleventh century "Genji monogatari" written by the lady Murasaki Shikibu lived in the Heian period, considered one of the masterpieces of Japanese literature as well as of all time literature. Artisanal paper production still preserves an extraordinarily lively manufacturing tradition in the East today, as well as the use of natural colors that have now returned to be produced in our territories. These materials, with their peculiarities and their versatility, have all the characteristics to adapt to a technological world very different from that of their origins. These works want to bring attention to these precious and unique materials whose development depends a lot on the quality of the environment and its proper ecological balance.
Anna Maria Scocozza
Anna Maria Scocozza
But what do you think an artist is a useless figure? - I live in the sea - Labyrinths. I like the roads that lead inside. - The Child Bride, the song of silence - The disobedient - The centering - Codes of the Spring- The law of the Seed, stand stand to grow complete. Flower Strength, Healing - Flowers Are Already In The Roots - Word Necklace - Literal Jewelry - Awareness Necklace - Poetic Necklace.
Anna Maria Scocozza was born in Rome in 1965 where she lives and works. She graduated in Costume and Fashion, she attended the Free Nude School at the Academy of Fine Arts in Rome and many specialization courses in painting and decoration. She led and designed numerous artistic / creative workshops and painting techniques courses at museums, schools, associations, youth centers for adolescents, adults and children. She has also participated to numerous group and personal exhibitions in Italy and abroad and her works can be found in Italian foundations and collections.
The three works "Madre provvida", "Flowers are already in the roots" and "But what do you think an artist is a useless figure?" are works that the artist created in 2019 using recycled paper which, spun and woven, forms a fabric. Also "I fiori sono già nelle radici- L'arte di vivere come fiori" was created in 2019 but through the use of a Japanese decorative technique of painting on water, the Suminagashi. The three works are part of a larger collection that the artist calls a "poetic wardrobe": a set of jewels, dresses and lingerie made with what is rejected and completely feminine.
Don't Wash Collection
Giovanna Bittante is a Venetian artist who, starting from 1993 following studies stylistic techniques and goldsmith production and manufacturing techniques. She began a copious production of jewels with which she participated in various exhibitions and fashion shows (such as the NY fashion show for the Superoro company in 1993), received several awards (such as GIOIELLIDENTRO in Venice in 2014) and gave birth to his company Giovanna Bittante Official (2018).
The artworks are mainly made with paper of various types and processed with texture special, thanks to the use of pigments or other materials, natural or geometric shapes, characterized by large volumes and super light weights. The inspiration comes from nature that turns into the main Muse tha could be the colors of a sunset, the surface of a tree, or the effects of minerals. The collection concerns three groups: The main dedicated to ART, which contains the most important jewels, the ALLEGRIA line, and the LUCE line, created in 2020, to "illuminate" our life. These are jewels to which photoluminescent glass has been inserted and allows to illuminate in the darkness and create a surprise effect.
Marcella A. Stilo
Marcella Stilo was born in Calabria in 1983. She then moved to Rome where she studied Communication and where she works as a press officer and cultural events organizer. In response to the economic crisis of 2007-2013, she created, in the city of Milan, "Cartalana Gioielli di Carta", a project between craftsmanship, fashion and communication geared towards sustainability. Alone, she learned various techniques for processing paper, a recycled and fragile material, which however allows her to express and realize the richness of ideas.
The "Stone" or Cartalana collection is inspired by the South Italy landscape, the land of origin of the founder Marcella Stilo. These jewels created in spun paper like wool play on verticality. The components that recall the stone, representing a point of origin from which to start over to overcome the fears of existence, seem almost suspended around or within brass structures. This composition makes them "amulet-jewels" that stand out and enhance the eco-sustainable craftsmanship project behind them.
Hero - New Gold Dream - Nouvelle arcadia - Kawagata Girl - Reina Roja - Almost me
Michela Alesi made the collage technique her own in the 1990s, progressively improving it with a personal procedure. Her work has been influenced by theatrical transvestism, the illustrations by Ertè, the glossy photos by Serge Lutens as well as by the iconography of a certain 'fashion system', often standardizing. She succeeds by making it (literally) in pieces: by cutting it, chopping it up. Dismember it. Each work thus comes to life by engulfing, absorbing and transforming the glossy images of fashion magazines through surprising metamorphoses that give them new identities.
"The creatures of my collages find a new dimension thanks to the decomposition and transformation of all those elements that, usually trapping them in the glossy pages of fashion, homologates them, making them serial individuals, without identity anymore. And this is how once in my collages they undergo a real mutation in the new dimension I created for them. To protect them, to free them. Forever. Through a new identity, I transform their cages into invincible armor. Salvific. "
Renata Mayumi Fukuda
Renata Mayumi Fukuda
Sense of self - Passing Clouds Collection
Born in São Paulo, Japanese descendant Renata Mayumi Fukuda graduated in Public Relations and worked in cinema and television for 10 years. In Lisbon, she found in jewelery the perfect path to combine her passion for manual work with the subtlety of oriental aesthetics present in all her pieces. Paper revealed itself as the main material and the artist explores in a unique direction its lightness and volume through different techniques. In this way she manages to break with the tradition of the predominant use of metal in jewelery and faces paper as a truly precious material.
Creating the Passing Clouds Collection with paper pulp allowed the artist to understand and to respect the complexity of her material. Also it helps in taking a step back and studying the time required by the drying process, working with the natural transformation of the surface, generating this unique and organic skin, makes these jewels much more original and precious than traditional metal ones.
"Capodimonte - Omaggio a Napoli"
Susy Manzo is a Milanese artist of Neapolitan origins who is working on the fragility and lightness of paper. Susy Marzo is inspired by everyday life in the production of his works, trying to create artistic projects that reflect popular customs and traditions and highlight social aspects such as discomfort, diversity and discrimination. "Giochi di Ruolo" (2012) and "Storie Sospese" (2016) were her most important collections.
The work is a tribute to Naples, the artist's birthplace. This work can be worn and it is composed with paper and tissue paper and made with the technique of kraft paper and paper cutting. The artist's intent is to create a female figure placed in timeless and space-less places, to tell imaginary and unreal realities. The delicacy of these figures is contrasted by detailed, often strong and explicit details.
The 10th Edition of Lucca Biennale will be held for the first time in an odd year from August 1 to September 26, 2021.
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